COVID-19 Shipping Delay - Order processing is delayed due to COVID-19. See the full update.

My Cart

My Saved Items

Your cart looks sad. Please log in for a better experience.

Off Road Jeep & Vehicle LED Light Bars Installation / LED Comparison / Night Drive Demo - LAMPHUS® Maverix™

Video Summary

  • Product Specifications
  • Full Installation
  • Angling Your Light Bars
  • Night Drive

Video Transcript

Hey everyone, it’s Brett again from the Online-LED-Store. Today I’m going to rock your world by showing you the amazing Maverix off-road LED light bars from the guys at LAMPHUS. We’ll be covering a ton of information about these bad boys. But first, we’re going to check out the complete specs on the Maverix. We’ll show you how the lights on this Land Cruiser were installed. We’ll unpack some tips on how to angle the lights, to turn the darkest of night into the brightest of days. Then we’re going to take this Toyota out for some off-road night driving — so whether you’re a weekend warrior, a serious off-road enthusiast or a desert racer who wants a light built for rugged driving, get ready to have your mind blown, as we dive into the features of the Maverix.

As you can see, the Maverix series has an ultra-slim, absolutely sleek design. They’re made with 5 watt CREE LEDs that will shine super-bright in even the darkest and harshest off-road conditions. And the fact that LEDs don’t emit ultraviolet rays makes them totally ecofriendly.

Their aluminum housing is resistant to just about anything you can throw at them: dust, water, extreme vibration, intense shock, and the shatter-resistant polycarbonate lens makes the Maverix awesome for off-road vehicles — but hey, it’s also perfect for bikes, ATVs, UTVs and watercraft.

The Maverix comes in a variation of different sizes ranging from 6-52 inches. The 6, 8, and 12-inch models are available in either 10-degrees Narrow Focus spots for long-range coverage, or 36-degrees Flood Lights to cover larger areas. The 22, 32, 42, and 52-inch models all come with the combination of both types of beams in a single light bar. There’s even a 4-inch modular version called the Maverix Cubus, which is also available in a flush mount variation. The Cubus is offered in either spot or flood light variations as well.

Alright, so check this out, the Maverix mounts so easy it’s insane! You can adjust the tilt angle of the bracket and because the base attachment of the bracket is adjustable, it frees you up to install the mounting bolts in the exact spot that you want them: On the roof rack, the sides of the bumper, the front of the grill or even on the rear of the car.

Alright, now I’ve shown you guys the basics, let’s bring in my good buddy, Sal Arroyo, the owner of Nitro Industries, to really blow you away and give you a complete rundown of the installation of the LAMPHUS light bars. All you Sal.

That’s right, Brett, we’ve tricked this Toyota out with some awesome LED light bars. All it took was some shake n’ bake from top to bottom, to make this Land Cruiser look pretty sick. Let me show you guys how easy it is to prepare it for some intense off-road punishment.

Okay, let’s start by installing the 20” light bar. We’ll be mounting it on the Land Cruiser’s front bumper. The first thing we’ll need to do is center the light bar on the mounting location. That can be done by using a regular measuring tape. As you can see, for this light bar we’ll have 2 1/2” inches of gap on both sides. Now that we’ve got the mounting location measured out, we’ll use these paint markers to indicate the spots we’ll be drilling our mounting holes. Paint Markers are an awesome tool — they’re extremely easy to use, and you can scrape the marks off using just about anything you have handy.

Now that we’ve got our mounting holes set, we’ll drill into the bumper guard, starting with a pilot hole. Then we’ll switch to a bigger drill bit, and finish the hole so the mounting screw can fit. Okay, that’s the first hole. Now let’s drill the hole for the other side.

Guys, here’s a quick tip: Since we’re drilling on metal, that hole we just made won’t have any paint on it. And unfortunately that’ll allow water to get in there, and that area will begin to rust. We don’t want that! So we’ll grab some spray paint to cover the area. First thing we’ll do is put down some masking tape, so the spray paint doesn’t paint over any areas that don’t need it. And guys, listen: if you’re using paint that’s a different color from the metal, you might want to lay down your masking tape before you start drilling. Always remember to wait for the paint to dry first. This first coat will be the base layer. Once it’s dry we’ll apply a second layer. And after everything’s completely dry, we can mount the light bar on here.

And here’s our 20” Maverix, fully installed and ready to rock n’ roll. Now we’re going to install two of the 8” light bars on the lower bar of this bumper guard.

And guys, on an install like this, since the bar doesn’t have any mounting locations — it’s just the tube you see here — first we’ll need to measure and mark the place where the mounting bolt will be, and then weld a metal tab onto the bar. You’ll notice that in the place where we’re going to mount the tab, and right below that, we’ve also marked the center point of where the hole and the metal tab should be aligned.

Next we're going to use the grinder, and grind off the paint on the welding location, to make it ready to weld. Once we've welded it, we’ll grind it down and make it a little bit smoother for the new paint. And just like we did on the 20” light bar, we'll be applying some masking tape around the area. We’ll cool off the newly welded tab so the paint will go on there, or else it will start to bubble. Make sure you apply the paint twice. And once it’s dried, now we can mount the light on there, and then do the same for the other side. Awesome!

Now let’s start on the bumper flush mounts. For mounting the flush mount light on the front bumper, we’ll need to cut a square on the bumper to fit the light in there. The trick to making that perfect cut-out we need here is that we first laid the flush mount face down on the surface. Then we taped around the square area of the light, and transferred the tape over and taped this on the preferred mounting location on the bumper.

Next, we can use a Die Grinder to cut the square on the bumper. Then we can try to see if the light will fit...Perfect! And now that we know it fits, we’ll use our Paint Marker to mark the mounting holes. Then we simply drill the mounting holes. Next we apply a coat of paint, twice. Now we can remove the masking tape, and mount our light.

For the Cubus lights that we put on the side of the roof rack, we've also welded metal tabs to mount these bad boys. Another way to mount the tabs would be to use these horizontal bar clamps. These mounts are really easy to use, and come in sizes 1”, 1-1/2”, and 1-3/4” bars. Once we’ve gotten the clamp secured on the bar, we can mount the lights right on them. These mounting clamps are available online at the Online-LED-Store website, and they're one of the easiest ways to mount the lights.

Now, let’s start installing the fuse block. The fuse block is installed to protect a vehicle's electrical devices from shorts or power surges. So if there are any spikes or shorts, the fuse will burn out, and that will protect the affected device. Pretty cool, right?

We'll be installing this fuse block in the engine bay, and for this Land Cruiser, we’re installing on this shield that's right behind the car's battery. If you don’t have that shield, you can install it anywhere near the battery. Just remember that the fuse block will need to be wired directly to the battery.

Now let’s go ahead and measure out some wires that we’ll be connecting between the fuse block and the relays. We can use some quick disconnects to make the connection. Once we have all these wires connected to the fuse block, we can go ahead and apply the wire loom. And to make that easy, we used electrical tape to group them together so these wires will stay in a tight group, making it easier to put on the wire loom and move the wires around. Next, we’ll cut the tips off these wires and tape it up, so it will be easier to go through the firewall. Then we'll run the wires across the engine bay, and through the firewall, which is where our relays will be at. I like to use zip ties to secure the wires along the way, so they don't move around and touch different components near the engine. Now that we’ve secured our wires, we're ready to feed them through the firewall. Take off the plastic grommet first, then cut a cross on it, that way the hole will be bigger and you can to fit the wires through.

Then we’ll start wiring the lights. Make sure you check the light's output first, so you'll know the gauge of the wires you need to use. There are many ways you can splice two wires together. Today we’ll be soldering the wires together. First, we’ll melt some solder onto one end of the wires. Then we’ll cut a short piece of heat shrink, and fit it onto the other side of the wires we're soldering to. Then we'll melt some solder on the other side of the wires. Next we’ll put them together and melt the solder, making this a very secured connection. Once our soldering’s done, we can go ahead and move the heat shrink over the soldered section, then apply some heat to it. Then we’ll also put wire loom over the wires, to give it an extra layer of protection. You’ll want to make sure you tape each side of the wire loom after you put it on, to prevent the wires from coming out over time.

We’ll be grouping some of the lights together, as they’ll be on the same switch. For example, here we’ll be grouping the bottom two spotlights we have into one switch, so we’ll need to splice these wires together. Now, for the ground wires, the first thing we’ll do is slide a piece of heat shrink onto the wires, then crimp on a ring terminal. For the power wires, we’ll also slide a piece of heat shrink over it. But then we're going to solder this to another wire, which will eventually go through the firewall and onto the relays.

We‘ll be grounding these bottom lights under our car, then feed the positive wire through the bottom and into the engine bay. We'll start by scraping some of the paint and grease off the location. This will give us a better connection. Then we'll drill a hole using a screw, and secure the ground ring terminal on here. Once we’re done, we can put on the wire loom then feed it through the firewall.

And now that we have all the lights in the front wired and ready to go, let’s start wiring up the lights on the roof rack. We want to run a minimal number of wires down into the car, so we'll try to find a good source of ground first. Fortunately, we were able to find it on the roof rack using a voltage test meter, so we‘ll be grounding our lights right here. Now that we’ve soldered and wire loomed all the lights on the roof rack, we're ready to bring the wires down into the firewall. So we're running these wires directly into the seams of the hood. The hood will be sort of pinching onto the wire loom here, so we're going to add an extra layer of tape to fully protect it from any damage. Once that's done, we'll go ahead and run that into the firewall.

Now let’s start connecting all the wires to the relays. We’re using 5 pin relays that are pre-wired. But there’s nothing wrong with using the regular kind. These relays can be interlocked with each other, so they can easily be mounted together. We'll start by connecting the wires that are coming from the fuse box. First, we'll put the butt connectors on them. These will be wired to the black wires on the relays. They’re connected to PIN 30 on your relays.

We'll start by grouping all the black wires using electrical tape. This way it will be more organized when we're working on it.

Next we're going to hook up the wires coming from the lights to the blue wires on the relays. They're connected to PIN 87 on the relay. We’ll cut off the white wires, since we won’t be using them for this installation.

Next we'll make a ground connection for the relays. They're the yellow wires here, and they're connected to PIN 85. We're just going to splice them together with a wire for ground.

Next we’ll group together the red wires. They're connected to PIN 86, and these will eventually go to the switches. A trick I’m going to show you here is to clean up these relays by removing the unused white wires. Just pop off the cover on the relay, and then use a small flathead screwdriver pop off the pin, and then you can simply remove each one of the white wires, like this.

Now we’ll extend the wires that will go to the switch. Next we can mount the relays. We don't want to drill six holes here, so we'll just be using one of the screw holes, and to make this secure, we'll use electrical tape to tape around the relays so they won't fall apart. Then we can go ahead and mount these relays to the exact location we want them. The last thing we'll do is to add a ring terminal to the ground connection, then screw it in on a good ground connection. Now that we're done, don't forget to put the blade fuses in the fuse block.

Then we’ll start fabricating the panel. Since we're going to be using six switches for our lighting setup, which is a lot of holes to drill in the car, we decided not to drill any holes for the switches and to just fabricate a panel ourselves. For this, we simply used a piece of ABS plastic. Guys, this is where you can get creative. We're just going to measure everything out and make the cuts with a few tools. Then we're going to shape the piece of plastic by heating it up. That way, we can make the bend to fit the panel to the exact shape we want it. Now that the panel is done, we've put in all six switches and a voltmeter. The voltmeter is a safe precaution to make sure we're not draining the battery too much. Now with everything in place, we can install the panel and wire it to the wires we made earlier. And then we’re done!

Now that we've got our light bars installed, it’s important to angle each light properly. The recommended angle would be to have your light bar tilt down about five degrees, so we're going to utilize this tilt meter app on our phone here, and while we're doing this at night, we can see the adjusted light output right away. You can see that the light output we have shoots directly to the front of the vehicle. This will shoot straight to cover the road right in front of you. With the rest of the front lights located on the bull bar and the lower front bumper, we already have the immediate ground covered completely, so we're just going to leave those lights straight without tilting. And since we have two of the Maverix Cubus lights mounted on each side of the car, one of them straight and the other one tilted down, this way we're covered for both the immediate ground and if we want to see far. The recommended tilt angles may differ from car to car, and it really is a personal preference, so we suggest you do this in an open area during night time. That way you'll find the exact angle you want.

Well, now that we’ve turned this Toyota into one completely badass SUV, let’s turn it back over to my buddy Brett of the Online-LED-Store.

All right. Thanks a lot, Sal. Well guys, we see now how easy it is to install the Maverix, and how easy it was to turn Sal’s dream rig into a reality. So let’s climb in behind the wheel of this bad boy, and take it out on a night drive.

We’re taking the Land Cruiser out now into some pitch-dark trails, to show you what these Maverix light bars can do. First we’ll show you the output of the rear 20” light bar. You can see this baby really lights up the trail behind us. Now check out the Maverix Cubus sidelights. Remember that these Cubus are flood lights, and it’s pitch black out here. So the light output from these little guys is pretty amazing. So here’s what two of the Maverix Cubus Flush Mounts look like in flood. Notice the huge stream of light they throw out. These are excellent lights for seeing everything right down the road ahead of you.

All right, so now let’s check out the 20” front light we installed on the bull bar. As you can see, this light shines all the way down the trail. With the 20” front lights off, you can really see what a difference these two 8” spotlights make in lighting up this trail.

So this one will really blow you away. It’s the 42” light on the roof rack. It really turns night into day, and you’re going to find it’s a lifesaver if you’re driving in mountains or through thick trees.

All right, so let’s do a comparison that’s going to put your factory headlights to shame. First, I’m going to show you what it looks like with just the Land Cruiser’s stock lights on. And now I switch off the headlights, and turn on the 20” light bars. Look at that difference. Amazing! And now for fun let’s just add the flush mounts. And here’s what it looks like when we switch on a pair of 8” spots. So let’s really blow this night trail into daylight, by adding our 42” roof light. Okay, so let’s take the SUV out now for some dirt road night driving. But take it from me guys, you really going to want to have safety with these lights when you’re driving on the back roads, and for the convenience of pretty much making it daylight anywhere.

So guys, that does it for today’s demo of the Maverix off-road light bar. I want to thank my buddy Sal here of Nitro Industries for letting us come by and check out his ride. I’m Brett for the Online-LED-Store. Let your light shine and I’ll catch you next time. Thanks for watching!

Maverix Series LED Light Bars